The Chef's Table

Ham Takes Center Stage

Mark has suggestions for selecting and choosing your Easter ham.

Ham is a cut of pork taken from the middle part of the hind shank. Ham is actually a pork roast, essentially no different than any other cut of pork. Curing pork turns it into ham, making it significantly less perishable and adds both texture and flavor.

A dry-cured ham is rubbed with a seasoning mixture, then sometimes cold-smoked, like the Virginia Smithfield ham is, and then aged in temperature-controlled rooms for a few months to over a year. Italian prosciutto, Spanish serrano and German westphalian are examples of un-smoked, dry-cured hams. Some dry-cured hams need to be cooked before eating; others do not.

Most ham is wet-cured by soaking it in or injecting it with a liquid brine solution. This solution is a combination of salts, nitrates, nitrites, sugar and seasonings. The nitrates add color and flavor and the salts and nitrites are used as preservatives. After a ham is wet-cured, often it is smoked to add flavor.

Hams are available either bone-in or boneless. Bone-in hams are less processed and are considered by some to be more flavorful. A boneless ham has the advantage of being easier to carve than a bone-in ham. Another option is a bone-in spiral cut ham. These provide the taste of a bone-in ham, but being pre-sliced they are easier to carve.

Most supermarket hams are fully cooked and ready to eat. Look for the phrase “ready to eat” on the label. These hams may be reheated to improve the flavor. Fresh or partially cooked hams must be fully cooked to an internal temperature of 160 degrees. Look for the phrase “ready to cook” or “cook before eating.” Also, there are USDA safe food handling instructions on these labels.

You might consider a glaze if you’re baking a ham. A glaze is a combination of ingredients designed to enhance the ham’s natural flavor. The acidity of slightly tart fruits combined with sugars which caramelize during baking makes a perfect flavor companion to the salty, smoked flavor of ham. When it comes to glazes almost anything goes. While most people use some combination of citrus, mustard, brown sugar and/or honey, you'll see glaze recipes with everything from bourbon to Dr. Pepper. Regardless, whether you’re using my new Apricot-Dijon Glaze or your grandma’s secret pineapple-clove ham spice, the process is the same. Please refer to the glazing guide accompanying this article.

So, simply select the ham that’s right for you and your family, add a nice glaze or sauce if you like, and be ready to soak up the compliments.

Chef Mark Alan Mollentine, The Governor’s Meeting House

Mark Mollentine is the chef/owner of the historic Governor's Meeting House restaurant and has over 20 years experience cooking, creating, teaching, and writing about food. He is pleased to introduce Chef Mark Alan's Finishing & Flavoring Sauces and Seasoning Blends. These original, high quality sauces and seasoning blends were selected from the most requested dishes from his restaurant. They are versatile, all natural, fat free, and have no msg or artificial food dyes. For more information, great recipes and to find where to buy the sauces and seasoning blends, go to www.ChefMarksKitchen.com